A: The first step is to remove the axle beam - something we won't go into here as this is covered in most workshop manuals.

Once the beam is out and stripped down to the bare centre section, with the torsion bars removed and the steering pin taken out, clean off all the muck and grease, and check the condition of the centre steering idler and the uprights for the dampers. Extreme care has to be taken whilst checking these as they are prone to severe rusting, if there is any sign of corrosion do not attempt to fit the adjusters, throw the beam away and get another.

Once you're happy with the beam mark the location of the centre steering pin. If you look around the edge of the centre pin housing you'll see a run of weld, this needs carefully grinding away. Take your time and work slowly, if you get too heavy handed you can easily push too hard and damage the beam. Once the weld has been ground away the housing should come free. If this decides to be stubborn use a chisel to split any existing weld.

Once the housing is off, this will reveal the dimple for the spot weld. There are three welds around the circumference of each tube, these will need drilling out. Using a 10mm flat bottom drill, drill through the outer tube again tacking care not to drill into or through the centre section.

Work on one tube at a time and locate the toothed adjuster. This is easily aligned using the bolt through the adjuster. Scribe a line around the outside of the adjuster then remove. Measure in 5mm from this line and re mark the shape.

Using a grinder fitted with a cutting disc cut down the line at either side and across the top and bottom, again take your time, if you cut too far you'll have basically scrapped the beam. Once you've cut through the centre section, remove the unwanted piece, this will reveal the centre spring block. If your earlier drilling was OK, you should be able to rotate this block. If this isn't the case check the spot welds and re drill if necessary.

Place the toothed adjuster back on to the beam and re align using the bolt. Once your happy with the positioning, tack the adjuster in place and check the block is still able to rotate. Re check the alignment of the adjuster and weld fully. Whilst welding, take your time to prevent a build up of heat which might distort the beam, and check the centre block can still rotate. Repeat this procedure on the other beam

Once both adjusters are fully welded, clean the centre pin housing and re align to the previously marked points. Again taking your time tack, then weld, the housing back in place. Once done assemble the adjusters, using the nylock and allen bolt on the top tube for bay windows or on the bottom for splits.

The bump stop arms on both sides of the beam will need removing, using a hacksaw cut through the arms close to the base weld line.

Once done, paint all welded areas and re assemble the axle. When the beam is back in the vehicle, set it to ride height . To adjust the setting simply slacken the lock nut, move the toothed adjuster to the desired height and tighten down the lock nut. Once done, take the vehicle to an alignment centre or garage to have the castor camber etc checked.

If the vehicle is to be run on a low setting, check for clearance of the wheel against the arch and all suspension components. You may find it necessary to use a low profile tyre for clearance purposes. Never try to adjust the suspension whilst under load and always place on axle stands with the road wheels free from the ground before adjusting . Running on the low setting for prolonged periods will cause premature wear on ball joints etc. Please check these on a regular basis.